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Classic Mustang Forum :: RE: New seatbelts from Scott Drake?

Author: orin
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 17:28 (GMT -4)
Topic Replies: 2

Yeah, but the front and rear are diffent lengths, right? At least they are in my Fairlane. The front "male" is about 18 inches long the the rear males are about 24 inches. These look like one size only.
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'67 Fairlane 500XL
289-4v/C4
Dark Moss Green/Parchment

Classic Mustang Forum :: RE: 67 Hood Hinges

Author: PetesPonies
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 17:25 (GMT -4)
Topic Replies: 12

Drop them in to achieve the look you want. I would say at least 8 hours to overnight. Then oil then up, wipe them off and install.
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Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance

"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

Classic Mustang Forum :: RE: 1965 (or '64 1/2??) Wiring and Suspension

Author: PetesPonies
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 17:24 (GMT -4)
Topic Replies: 16

a new turn signal switch would cure your ills behind teh steering wheel.
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Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance

"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

Classic Mustang Forum :: RE: 1965 (or '64 1/2??) Wiring and Suspension

Author: pb65stang
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 17:07 (GMT -4)
Topic Replies: 16

Horns definitely work. Last issue I had was with sparks and smoke out of the steering wheel, and horns when I pressed the brakes. After that I just disconnected them and moved on. I'll see where I can get on that one.

What does modifying the under dash harness entail? I will say, it's not exactly in stellar shape. There's quite a bit of fraying. Are there quality issues with the new harnesses? Would that be why you suggest keeping the current one?

Classic Mustang Forum :: RE: 1965 (or '64 1/2??) Wiring and Suspension

Author: David Suesz
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 17:01 (GMT -4)
Topic Replies: 16

Horn problems come in two main flavors. Either the horns are dead, (easy to check by connecting them directly to the battery), and a screwed up turn signal switch. Make sure the steering wheel is close enough to the column to get contact. Stuff like that.

If the under-dash harness is not badly screwed up, just modify that and replace the bad under hood and taillight wiring with correct standard 65 stuff.
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"The First Amendment...does not say that in every respect there shall be a separation of Church and State. ... The state may not establish a 'religion of secularism' in the sense of affirmatively opposing or showing hostility to religion, thus preferring those who believe in no religion over those who do believe." --Justice William Douglas

Classic Mustang Forum :: RE: Now this is what I call a car show!!!

Author: James E
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 17:00 (GMT -4)
Topic Replies: 2

Thanks, that was nice.
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Classic Mustang Forum :: RE: 1965 (or '64 1/2??) Wiring and Suspension

Author: pb65stang
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 16:01 (GMT -4)
Topic Replies: 16

Thanks for the help. The car really needs new wiring anyways, as the radio wiring is fried, half of the gauge lights don't work, the courtesy lights don't work, one taillight pigtail extension (I know, cheap) is iffy, and one headlight bright doesn't work. Reverse lights and license plate light have also never worked and I'd like to fix that. Figure for how relatively inexpensive it is, I'll just go with new harnesses and take my time to make sure everything is done correctly. I will be keeping the old harnesses just in case. So, assuming I get the correct harness, I shouldn't have any modifications, if I'm understanding. The cluster I have is woodgrain, which I thought was the '65-'66 Pony one, correct? Eventual plan is wood gauge cluster, wheel, and glove box door.

Is there any way to check to see if a gauge cluster is still "good"? This one came with the car when I bought it and has been sitting in my garage forever.

I will follow your and Pete's advice on the suspension. The more and more I look at it, it looks like a set of Torque Thrusts are going to be for sale soon, because I don't think the rears that I have are going to work without air shocks to keep them from hitting the quarter. I'll do the drop in the front, and stick with what works in terms of springs. Do you have any opinion on the mid-eye or reverse eye spring, just to satisfy my curiousity?

Finally, any thoughts on the horns issue? Any features to look for?

Thanks a bunch. I really appreciate it. Sometimes I have more enthusiasm and dreams for the car than real experience or ability, and it helps to be brought back down to earth.

Classic Mustang Forum :: RE: 1965 (or '64 1/2??) Wiring and Suspension

Author: David Suesz
Subject: Re: 1965 (or '64 1/2??) Wiring and Suspension
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 15:47 (GMT -4)
Topic Replies: 16

Suspension: Mustangs Plus "Street Heat" kit w/ 5 leaf mid-eye springs
Overkill.
OK. That solves that one. So what would you suggest? 4.5? 4? I definitely want a firmer, more "planted" feeling than stock.
The GT springs, as Pete says, should be fine, extra leaves will give you that "Chevy pickup" ride. I have GT coil and leaf springs, KYB Gas-A-Just, 1" front bar, Traction Masters. It is planted.

, sway bars front and rear, 620 coils, and shocks all around to replace my air shocks in the rear and cheap Autozone shocks in the front.
Good move, especially getting rid of the air shocks, which will damage your car, if they haven't already.
Yeah, I admit that I didn't do everything correct the first time. I'm trying to fix that. I'm relatively sure that the air shocks haven't done any damage, as they have only seen about 2,000 miles of road time.
Good to hear.

Also new upper and low A-arms (w/ new ball joints), and new bushings, etc., all the way around. Also plan to do the Shelby drop while I'm in there. Plan is to lower the car by about an inch in the rear and around 1.25 inches in the front.
That's a lot. That'll barely give you 2.5" of front suspension travel. The "drop" will lower it about 5/8". That's actually a lot.

Car will not be tracked, and I do not want to drop $600 for fancy A-arms, but but I do want it to feel confident on the street, and I like a firmer ride.
You'll get that if you follow Pete or me. No need to get pricey.

Eventually I'll be getting some 16 or 17 inch wheels to replace my current 15's. Does this suspension setup sound decent? Due to my slightly taller than stock tires, I'm looking for limited rear suspension travel to avoid issues.
Stiff springs will make the car ride like crap, but will not prevent rubbing. Only proper wheel/tire selection will do that.
Mustang Wheel and Tyre Chart
Yeah, I have a copy of that chart, and have tried to follow it. Again, I admit that I didn't do everything perfectly the first time. I was young, dumb, and in a hurry. I don't have any rubbing in the front with the 15x7 Torque Thrust's w/ 3.75 inch backspacing, but the back's aren't perfect. Again, what would you suggest? Keep in mind I'd like a little lowered stance with a firmer ride.
Asked and answered. See below photo.

Electrical: Here's my main issue. My car is a September 1964 built car. From what I can tell, it's one of the "transition" cars that got a hodge podge of parts. My hood is the 64 1/2 (with the razor edges), as are my headlight buckets and horns.
This is normal, not "hodge-podge".
I never knew "hodge-podge" would get such a reaction on here! Shocked
Ford didn't change over non-mechanical stuff on a particular day in most cases, they used the parts on hand until gone, then changed.

But, the car is an alternator car.
Right!
Finally! Got one right at least! Smile

Right now it has the 120 mph flat speedo, but I have what I think is a '65-'66 Pony gauge cluster that I'd really like to use if it's not too hard to convert it.
Easy to do, but not "original", since the 5-gauge cluster wasn't available until spring '65.
Not too concerned with "original" on this one, just much prefer the look. Never going to sell the car anyways. My first car, and it's not going anywhere. Just the underdash harness basically?
A few simple modifications will adapt your existing harness to the 66 cluster.

Looking at under-dash and engine gauge harnesses, it appears my biggest issue might be accounting for the horns and the heater. Is that correct? My heater now has high, low, and off.
Also normal.

I'm not sure if this is the 2 speed or 3 speed heater, but it appears that you must have a 3 speed heater if using the 5 gauge cluster. First, which heater do I have, and second, how hard is it to convert?
Hmm, low-off-high. 2-speed? Smile
Total waste of time and money to convert. The only reason the 5-gauge cars had the 3 speed heater was Ford switched to the cheaper 3-speed type before the 5-gauge cluster was introduced. Conversion of your harness to 5-gauge doesn't effect the heater.
OK. That's what I wanted to hear on that one.

Finally, for the horns, if I use a '65 5 gauge under-dash harness, do I need a '65 horns?
You already have 65 horns, your car is a 65, since it was built in September 1964.
I could be wrong on this one, but I think I remember asking the question about the horns on the old forum (probably been 5 years ago) and was actually told otherwise. Maybe some tips here on what to look for on the horns to verify? I actually hope that I do have '65 horns, as that may solve my horn problems, but I'm intrigued as to why I would think I have '64 horns ever since I've had the car. Genuinely interested on this one.
My '64 horns don't work currently, as when I was building the car I was fighting a short issue in the steering wheel contact and just disconnected the horns.
OK, so fix your wiring, turn signal switch, or whatever is wrong. You don't have 64 horns.
That's the plan!

Finally, what have you guys found is the best way to clean and repaint an undercarraige, assuming the drivetrain is still in the car? Mine has some old undercoating and I'd like to clean it up and get it looking as good as possible, but again, this car will be driven. Should I prime, paint, and undercoat?
The factory didn't paint or undercoat under the car, except the wheel wells.
OK...would it not be smarter to at least throw some primer and paint on there? I agree on the no undercoating.
Removing dirt, road grease, and undercoating requires scraping, brushing with solvent, and wiping with rags.

This is the suspension setup I described. I think most people would not think the stance sucks.

_________________
"The First Amendment...does not say that in every respect there shall be a separation of Church and State. ... The state may not establish a 'religion of secularism' in the sense of affirmatively opposing or showing hostility to religion, thus preferring those who believe in no religion over those who do believe." --Justice William Douglas

Classic Mustang Forum :: RE: 67 Hood Hinges

Author: Eddies'66
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 15:38 (GMT -4)
Topic Replies: 12

67200F5A02206 wrote:
If the rivets are loose they will not function properly. I bought an unbent OEM set off ebay and tightened up the rivets with a dull chisel, anvil and BFH. Some people heat them up but with a BFH it is not necessary.

John, (or anyone else)

How tight/loose are the joints supposed to be, either new or tighten up with the chisel and BFH?

Mine have quite a bit of play in them. Just wondering how much I can hammer on them.

Thanks!
_________________
Eddie
'66 Coupe
Granada Disks
3.55 Rear Gears
Modified 302
w/T-5

Classic Mustang Forum :: RE: 1965 (or '64 1/2??) Wiring and Suspension

Author: pb65stang
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 15:29 (GMT -4)
Topic Replies: 16

PetesPonies wrote:
Well probably more than anyone here . . I like a stiff suspension. Some of my cars are setup very stiff. But 620 springs on an early car with a SB is really going to be stiff and I feel its not what people are expecting. The GT springs are plenty stiff enough when you do the rest of the mods. If you were nearby, I'd take you for a ride

Appreciate the advice. I'm glad I asked before just purchasing. I'm fully capable of admitting that I'm younger and MUCH less experienced with these cars than most of the people on here. I'm really just trying to set the car up to be enjoyable and dependable for the long haul. Appreciate the offer on the ride! From what I've read, you probably have other cars I'd be more interested in riding in than an early coupe with a stiff suspension!

Classic Mustang Forum :: RE: 1965 (or '64 1/2??) Wiring and Suspension

Author: pb65stang
Subject: Re: 1965 (or '64 1/2??) Wiring and Suspension
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 15:26 (GMT -4)
Topic Replies: 16

David Suesz wrote:
Suspension: Mustangs Plus "Street Heat" kit w/ 5 leaf mid-eye springs
Overkill.
OK. That solves that one. So what would you suggest? 4.5? 4? I definitely want a firmer, more "planted" feeling than stock.

, sway bars front and rear, 620 coils, and shocks all around to replace my air shocks in the rear and cheap Autozone shocks in the front.
Good move, especially getting rid of the air shocks, which will damage your car, if they haven't already.
Yeah, I admit that I didn't do everything correct the first time. I'm trying to fix that. I'm relatively sure that the air shocks haven't done any damage, as they have only seen about 2,000 miles of road time.

Also new upper and low A-arms (w/ new ball joints), and new bushings, etc., all the way around. Also plan to do the Shelby drop while I'm in there. Plan is to lower the car by about an inch in the rear and around 1.25 inches in the front. Car will not be tracked, and I do not want to drop $600 for fancy A-arms, but but I do want it to feel confident on the street, and I like a firmer ride. Eventually I'll be getting some 16 or 17 inch wheels to replace my current 15's. Does this suspension setup sound decent? Due to my slightly taller than stock tires, I'm looking for limited rear suspension travel to avoid issues.
Stiff springs will make the car ride like crap, but will not prevent rubbing. Only proper wheel/tire selection will do that.
Mustang Wheel and Tyre Chart
Yeah, I have a copy of that chart, and have tried to follow it. Again, I admit that I didn't do everything perfectly the first time. I was young, dumb, and in a hurry. I don't have any rubbing in the front with the 15x7 Torque Thrust's w/ 3.75 inch backspacing, but the back's aren't perfect. Again, what would you suggest? Keep in mind I'd like a little lowered stance with a firmer ride.
Electrical: Here's my main issue. My car is a September 1964 built car. From what I can tell, it's one of the "transition" cars that got a hodge podge of parts. My hood is the 64 1/2 (with the razor edges), as are my headlight buckets and horns.
This is normal, not "hodge-podge".
I never knew "hodge-podge" would get such a reaction on here!

But, the car is an alternator car.
Right!
Finally! Got one right at least!

Right now it has the 120 mph flat speedo, but I have what I think is a '65-'66 Pony gauge cluster that I'd really like to use if it's not too hard to convert it.
Easy to do, but not "original", since the 5-gauge cluster wasn't available until spring '65.
Not too concerned with "original" on this one, just much prefer the look. Never going to sell the car anyways. My first car, and it's not going anywhere. Just the underdash harness basically?
Looking at under-dash and engine gauge harnesses, it appears my biggest issue might be accounting for the horns and the heater. Is that correct? My heater now has high, low, and off.
Also normal.

I'm not sure if this is the 2 speed or 3 speed heater, but it appears that you must have a 3 speed heater if using the 5 gauge cluster. First, which heater do I have, and second, how hard is it to convert?
Hmm, low-off-high. 2-speed?
Total waste of time and money to convert. The only reason the 5-gauge cars had the 3 speed heater was Ford switched to the cheaper 3-speed type before the 5-gauge cluster was introduced. Conversion of your harness to 5-gauge doesn't effect the heater.
OK. That's what I wanted to hear on that one.

Finally, for the horns, if I use a '65 5 gauge under-dash harness, do I need a '65 horns?
You already have 65 horns, your car is a 65, since it was built in September 1964.
I could be wrong on this one, but I think I remember asking the question about the horns on the old forum (probably been 5 years ago) and was actually told otherwise. Maybe some tips here on what to look for on the horns to verify? I actually hope that I do have '65 horns, as that may solve my horn problems, but I'm intrigued as to why I would think I have '64 horns ever since I've had the car. Genuinely interested on this one.
My '64 horns don't work currently, as when I was building the car I was fighting a short issue in the steering wheel contact and just disconnected the horns.
OK, so fix your wiring, turn signal switch, or whatever is wrong. You don't have 64 horns.
That's the plan!

Finally, what have you guys found is the best way to clean and repaint an undercarraige, assuming the drivetrain is still in the car? Mine has some old undercoating and I'd like to clean it up and get it looking as good as possible, but again, this car will be driven. Should I prime, paint, and undercoat?
The factory didn't paint or undercoat under the car, except the wheel wells.
OK...would it not be smarter to at least throw some primer and paint on there? I agree on the no undercoating.

Classic Mustang Forum :: RE: 1965 (or '64 1/2??) Wiring and Suspension

Author: PetesPonies
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 15:20 (GMT -4)
Topic Replies: 16

Well probably more than anyone here . . I like a stiff suspension. Some of my cars are setup very stiff. But 620 springs on an early car with a SB is really going to be stiff and I feel its not what people are expecting. The GT springs are plenty stiff enough when you do the rest of the mods. If you were nearby, I'd take you for a ride
_________________
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance

"Never underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups"

Classic Mustang Forum :: RE: 1965 (or '64 1/2??) Wiring and Suspension

Author: David Suesz
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 15:10 (GMT -4)
Topic Replies: 16

pb65stang wrote:
Yes David, I did. I swear, I really am not trying to come off as an ignorant guy ignoring opinions that I don't necessarily want to hear. I'm on a wireless card on my computer in the middle of south central KS, my internet connection is terrible as it is. I actually had written a reply to every one of your comments before I lost my connection. I'll try to reply to your post here in about 30 minutes when I get on a wired and stable connection.

Yeah, I hate it when stuff like that happens.
_________________
"The First Amendment...does not say that in every respect there shall be a separation of Church and State. ... The state may not establish a 'religion of secularism' in the sense of affirmatively opposing or showing hostility to religion, thus preferring those who believe in no religion over those who do believe." --Justice William Douglas

Classic Mustang Forum :: RE: 67 Hood Hinges

Author: David Suesz
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 15:10 (GMT -4)
Topic Replies: 12

67bensalemfastback2 wrote:
PetesPonies wrote:
Drop the hinges in phosphoric acid and you will get a good finish . . much better looking than paint.

I have the hinges stripped to bare metal as it is. Phosphoric acid from Home Depot? How long do the parts need to be immersed? Do light surface scratches need to be removed /will they show through the phosphoric acid treatment?

67200F5A02206 - will need to search for that type of paint. Someone recommended to use the"natural" color paint ie cast iron.

If you go with the phosphoric acid, you won't need the gray paint.
_________________
"The First Amendment...does not say that in every respect there shall be a separation of Church and State. ... The state may not establish a 'religion of secularism' in the sense of affirmatively opposing or showing hostility to religion, thus preferring those who believe in no religion over those who do believe." --Justice William Douglas

Classic Mustang Forum :: RE: 67 Hood Hinges

Author: 67bensalemfastback2
Posted: Mar 19, 2010 14:48 (GMT -4)
Topic Replies: 12

PetesPonies wrote:
Drop the hinges in phosphoric acid and you will get a good finish . . much better looking than paint.

I have the hinges stripped to bare metal as it is. Phosphoric acid from Home Depot? How long do the parts need to be immersed? Do light surface scratches need to be removed /will they show through the phosphoric acid treatment?

67200F5A02206 - will need to search for that type of paint. Someone recommended to use the"natural" color paint ie cast iron.
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